We wake with a single goal in mind, get to the Bear Ridge Trail and hike into Vermilion Valley Resort. It’s been 8 days in the wilderness, and we are eager for fresh food, beer and relaxation. The 7 mile trail to VVR is fairly uneventful, and we make good time. We see peek-a-book views of Thomas A. Edison as we hike down. The lake is very low, since California is in drought. Usually there is a boat which ferries hikers from the PCT to the resort, via the lake, but since there is not enough water in the lake to make the trip, we walk.
VVR is a rustic and simple place. Upon our arrival, we were greeted with a free beer, and a tour of the grounds. Chef, Sriracha, Blue, Machete, and several other hikers we know are sitting outside the little store, drinking beer. Everyone looks dirty and exhausted. The strain of our arduous journey through high Sierras written on everyone’s faces.
We arrive just in time for lunch. There isn’t exactly a restaurant (yet) at VVR, so for lunch they serve us ham sandwiches and a cup of fruit. It’s barely enough food to meet my ravenous appetite, but it’s better than the dried beans and tuna I’ve been eating for the past week.
We join the other hikers in front of the store after lunch, drinking beers. The conversation is animated, for only the fellow hiker knows just how exhausting, wonderful, and intense the last week was. The proprietor of VVR peeks her head out of the door of the store. “I just love hearing all the laughter from out here! Hikers are so happy”. We laugh, and order more beers.
We stayed at VVR, and the next morning after breakfast, headed back out onto the trail. Some resupply to tide us to Mammoth Lakes in our packs. I feel pretty refreshed, but not quite satisfied calorically. It’s going to take a big dinner (or two) to get the empty spot in my stomach full again.
The next day, we have a long, but relatively easy coupe of days hike into Mammoth Lakes. The climb over Silver Pass was another Sierra hit of pristine alpine lakes, melting snow, and spires of granite.
Even when I’m exhausted, beyond a point where I thought I understood what it meant to be exhausted, I get invigorated by this landscape. In order to thru-hike, we must embrace the difficulties, and accept them as part of the work for the reward. This place was not made for humans; to hike thru we must be strong.
In Mammoth Lakes, we stayed at the Sierra Lodge. It was great! Clean, spacious rooms and very affordable. On the television, a 72 hour marathon of Harry Potter was playing, which was the only thing on TV worth keeping on in the background. We got our fill of all the town fun – Iced Americanos, fresh food, and a bottle of wine.
I also got to see a friend from Seattle, who was coincidentally here climbing with her boyfriend. It felt so nice to HUG A FRIEND. We left for the PCT before most of our friends and family were vaccinated, so it’s been quite a long time since I was able to sit next to a friend and talk – worry free.
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