thru hiking

We start our day near Muir Ranch. Last night we crossed the river to check out the Blayney Hot Springs, and camped over here. It’s a wet morning, with dew and condensation on the tent that’s also dampened the outside of my sleeping bag. I hate it when that happens. 

My sleeping bad is low on air. It’s been leaking air lately. I had to blow it up 3 times last night. As I lay still in the dewy morning air, I debate wether or not to blow it up again. I then decide not to and flip the valve to let the remaining air out. It’s 7 am and I rise and get started on the day, starting by filtering some water from the river.

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The original plan for today was to hike over both Pinchot Pass and Mather Pass (only 8 miles apart) to the Palisade Lakes. That’s where Chef and Sriracha are heading. But after yesterday, Lupine and I have our reservations. Or, at least, I certainly do.

Yesterday was only about 12 miles and I was exhausted. I started the day feeling great, charging ahead over Glen Pass and then down the snow field to Rae Lakes. Then I hit a wall. The elevation sapping my energy, all I wanted to do was nap. Then as we descended, my sciatica began to fire up shooting jolts down my leg. Aside from the sharp pain, it also rubbed on my mind, wearing me down. I thought I was doing better… But am I?

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For the last few nights we’ve been in Bishop, staying at the Hostel California. It’s a funky house full of temporary vagabonds and passers-through. It’s a place of young people, not all exclusively young.

The walls are adorned with autographed pictures of known rock climbers, likely signed as they stayed here for one of their trips to the playground of the Sierras.

Each night we hear laughter outside our window in the courtyard as the smell of marijuana drifts upward. Our room has four bunks, and a private bathroom. It’s nothing fancy, but comfortable enough. Downstairs in the living room, hikers are passed out on the couch, shoes still strapped to their feet. I prefer to assume they just got off trail and couldn’t make it any further, or spare the extra calories to unhitch their shoes. But, from the smell of the courtyard last night, I suspect they forgot how to untie them, or simply forgot to care. Nevermind where their room is.

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We start out at Rock Creek, crawling from our tent into the cold. It’s so cold with the wind, before the sun sheds it’s rays on us we skip breakfast and coffee opting to have it further up trail. Lupine heads up the trail as I finish packing my bag.

In normal years, Rock Creek is one of the first river crossings that can be tricky due to rushing waters of snow melt. But this year is not normal. Snow pack is far, far below normal. I skip across the rocks with ease, admiring the golden brown rocks underneath the water.

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When we awake it’s still cold. But, with muscles ready to move, I poke my head from the tent. The ground is frozen and frosted. I look to see small sheets of ice clinging to Sriracha’s tent, just a couple feet from us. Our camp site last night was cozy, given it’s size. We crawl from our tent and cook coffee, talking with Sriracha and Chef as the sun begins to warm us, thawing out the ground, slowly drying our tent, still wet from last night’s rain.

We take our time to pack, knowing we have fewer miles today. Lupine and I are planning for about 15 miles. Sriracha and Chef however are planning for 20, because they want to get as close as possible to the Mt. Whitney cutoff. Tomorrow they will get up early and summit, then try to catch up with us in a day or two.

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Here we are again in the desert. No doubt about it today. Sand surrounds the tent. It’s before 6am when I wake up. The air is cool and comfortable, perfect temps for climbing a hill. But Lupine is still sleeping and our fellow hikers are still quiet.

I lay still, enjoying the cool morning air. I wish this could last forever, but I know it won’t. I watch the shade recede on the opposing hillside and know it will be hot soon.

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I have a headache when I awake. I reach for a water bottle. It cools my throat and comforts my head. I listen for noise outside my tent, to see if my friends are yet stirring. It’s quiet. It’s 6 am. Lupine’s sleeping. I roll over and close my eyes hoping my headache goes away. I don’t want to get up. I decide to enjoy the quiet. 

I lay this way for 20-30 minutes before my bladder moves me into motion. I stumble from the tent, dragging my tired legs. The air fees cool and nice. There are no voices to ruin the morning. I stumble back to my tent, and lay down once again. My little air mattress is bliss.

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