The Lanman Adventure Blog

pacific crest trail

Lupine’s Wild Ride (PCT Day 91)

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Last night we had one of our best camp spots of the trip. We camped at mile 1,046 and our tent sits atop a ridge where I fell asleep watching the sky turn pink in the horizon, a ribbon of color above the mountains. Now, this morning the mountains are glowing again, telling us the sun is on its way. We best prepare to start our day. But it’s so comfy in our tent. My legs hurt last night, aching in my sciatica. So I’m hesitant to get up, but eventually I must rise. I summon the courage and rise. 

Yesterday we did about 20 miles. The plan is to do the same today. 

We leave camp around 7 am, and bid good day to a fellow hiker camped nearby. We do not see him again today.

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Good people (PCT Day 90)

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When I awake to the alarm at 5 am I can hear the wind swirling around overhead, stirring above the trees. I envision the clouds swirling and twisting like liquid in a caldron. I remember watching the clouds last night move quickly across the sky. Before falling asleep I slipped in some earplugs to help clear my head. Fortunately our tent sits sheltered beside some boulders, avoiding most of the wind. 

I ask Lupine how she’s doing as her eyes barely open. “I’m tired” she says as her eyes then seal back shut. I’ll lay here a little longer and then get moving I decide. Lupine wakes up at 6, and writes a quick and simple account of the day.

Woke up at creek. Slept in till 6. 

Breakfast and coffee at our campsite. We are tired this morning and need come caffeine to get moving. 

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North from Sonora Pass (PCT Day 89)

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We wake up at Deadman Campground under a huge cedar tree – slept well, but woke up hungry. Jon was so tired the night before he put on two right shoes, one of them mine, to use the bathroom. I reapplied Jon’s KT tape, packed up and headed down to Kennedy Meadows for breakfast around 7:30. Only one table occupied so far, the normally bustling cafe was very quiet. The local dogs in the adjacent lobby looked at us, but obediently did not enter the cafe. I ordered biscuits and gravy, 2 eggs, 1 pancake and ham. I’d been craving biscuits for the last 200 miles or so. Jon got 2 pancakes, 3 eggs and sausage. Coffee was excellent, not too strong or weak, just right. The food at KM has been really good, and affordable. I feel rejuvenated from our last 3 meals here. 

While packing up last night, I made a horrible realization – I left my treeking poles in Steve’s car. I am unable to buy, borrow or steal any trekking poles at Kennedy Meadows North, so I resolve to hike the next 75 miles without poles. I can borrow Cactus’s poles for snow crossings, if needed.

The shuttle back to Sonora Pass had 9 hikers and their packs piled into a van. Our driver, a soft spoken older man, pointed out old wagon trails from the 1850’s along the way. Amazing that settlers haven’t been here very long, just in the last 200 years? I once stayed at a friend’s house in Austria. It had been in his family for 400+ years. The driver told us a story about a hiker who found a 15 lb rifle along the wagon trail, dating back to the 1880’s.

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Into Kennedy Meadow North (PCT Day 88)

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We sleep near the Kennedy Canyon Creek. Last night I fell in while getting some water, just as the sun went down. It was unfortunate, but today is a new day, and my clothes are likely dry now as they hang from a tree branch outside our tent. The rain fly was off last night so I can see them.

My alarm goes off at 4:30 am. Lupine and I were ambitious when we agreed on that time last night. But we are excited to get to Kennedy Meadows North today, because it’s supposed to have good food, and we’ve heard only good things. This is also our first chance to get rid of our bear canisters, the large plastic cylinders that have plagued our backpacks since entering the Sierras 300 miles ago in Kennedy Meadows South. They’re required to keep your food safe from bears, but they are bulky and heavy, thus won’t be missed. Sure, they’re only about 2 lbs or so which doesn’t sound like much, but when your hiking 15-20 miles per day or more you really really want every pound to count. Suffice to say, we can’t wait to lose this 2 lbs today.

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Mosquito Land and 1000 miles hiked (PCT Day 87)

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Last night we slept at Wilma Lake. It was swarming with mosquitoes. Everywhere seems to be swarming with mosquitoes lately. I put the rain fly on the tent last night to provide an extra barrier from their entry. This morning I can see a couple still hanging out on the top of the tent. I assume they had a cold night and are probably looking forward to a warm meal.

We set the alarm for 5:00 am this morning. We don’t usually set alarms, but today we wanted to be sure to get an early start. We’re aiming for a 20 mile day, and to do so comfortably, we’ll need more hours. When the alarm goes off, there are already birds singing, and starting their day. I hit snooze twice and we get up at 5:30 am. 

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The Many Meadows of Yosemite (PCT Day 85)

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It’s cold again this morning. In the twenties, I assume. 25? 28? I’m not sure exactly. I watch the sun as it makes shadows on our tent. The shaded imprint of branches wave across the rain fly. When the sun is sufficiently illuminating the bottom of the tent, my motivation rises, bringing me upward to my feet. Again it’s time to hike. It’s time to go to work. Today will be a good day I tell myself again. I’m hopeful for beauty, wonder, joy, and a pain free day.

The snow from last nights dusting is mostly melted, with only hints of it in the shade of giant conifers. A little bit of ice sits at the bottom of our tent, where the snow began to melt then freeze again. Near our camp is a river, we must cross first thing in the morning. We do it before our coffee. So, does it even happen or is this just a dream? I skip across the rocks, precariously placed. But, I make it with dry feet. Unfortunately, Lupine is not so lucky, dunking her foot into the stream. Burrr…

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Yosemite Waterfalls and Granite Domes (PCT Day 84)

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I awake. It’s cold. I see Lupine’s head is still tucked under her sleeping quilt. I’m relieved. I’m not ready to wake up. I tuck my head back under my quilt. 

We originally planned to rise early To make up from lost time yesterday, from our venture to Yosemite Valley. But we clearly are not hardcore, dawn dashing, mile crushing thru-hikers. I’m okay with that. My bed is comfy. Last night was the first night with my new pad, a simple foam pad. The previous two nights were spent sleeping on a pile of clothes like a dog. 

When I notice Lupine’s head stick out from her sleeping quilt, she says “I signed my shares”. She just got an urgent message last night from her employer. They just secured more funding and are issuing more shares to the employees, but she needed to sign by the end of the week. We’re lucky we were in Tuolumne for an extra day and that she has a tiny bit of phone service. Otherwise we’d be gone past the weekend. 

When we get up, I stack my gear on the picnic table and pack it into my bag. I say to Lupine, “it’s going to be a good day. I’m just going to put that out into the world”.

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Donahue Pass, Tuolumne Meadows & The Yosemite Valley (PCT Days 82-83)

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We rise to another blue sky in the backcountry. I turn over to greet Jon, and notice something odd. He is laying on a completely flat mattress pad. “Oh no, your pad!”, I exclaim. “Last night it kept deflating, so I pulled out the valve, and then it broke”. This was, admittedly, a little frustrating. Over the past week, the pad had been showing signs that there was something defective with the valve. Cactus would wake up multiple times at night and reinflate it. While in Mammoth Lakes, we went to a gear store to buy a new one, but Cactus has declined – citing the cost, almost $200.

I leave Cactus in the tent to evaluate the status of the broken gear, and make our breakfast on a stone in the sunshine. A chubby little Marmot joins me, observing carefully my preparations from a distance.

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Thousand Island Lake (PCT Day 81)

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We camp at the Agnew Meadow trailhead with plans of getting up early this morning to beat the heat, and possibly do Donahue pass today. But, those plans don’t come to fruition as we ignore the first light, hiding our heads under our sleeping quilts. I’ve come to grip with the fact we are not early risers on the trail.

We awake at 8 am and immediately get up, pack and begin hiking. I feel groggy on the trail as we climb without our coffee. We start the day with switchbacks and green grass. The trail is lush, with Lupine growing everywhere. In a week or two much of it will bloom. 

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Return to the trail (PCT Day 80)

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Lupine and I remain in Mammoth Lakes for two days. We initially planned to stay for just one day, but when it came time to checkout the following day, we couldn’t bring ourselves to leave. Still tired, we chose to spoil our bodies with a second day of rest. And our bodies are thankful after the 10 days of trail we’ve subjected them to, And the countless more we will.

We get a ride to the trailhead from two friends from Seattle. They happen to be in the area climbing, and offer to give us a ride then they hike with us for the three miles over mammoth pass to rejoin the PCT. From there we all snag a selfie and wave goodbye. We may see them in a couple days as they’re going to Tuolomne to climb, and that’s our next stop as well in a couple days.

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