We wake up in a Best Western in Big Bear at 6 am. We’re meeting our trail friend Horse in the lobby at 7:30 am to share a ride back to the trail, from a guy named Ray. Horse got his number from the bar down the street when he started asking around. Apparently that’s how ride services work in Big Bear. There’s no advertised Taxi service, unless you stumble upon Carl’s business card at the laundromat (like we did yesterday). And, there’s no Uber. So, you get a phone number when you start asking around. It’s interesting the way being carless can shape your perspective of a place.
I slept horribly last night. I couldn’t fall asleep and I missed my sleeping bag, but I was too lazy to get up and pull it out. Plus, common convention would suggest I should be comfortable in a hotel bed vs a tent. So I remained in that awkward state of cold but not so cold to do something about it. Im slow to rise when my alarm goes off. Rachel makes coffee from the hotel coffeemaker. It tastes like water. We crave the instant variety we’ve grown accustomed to on the trail. Hopefully the coffee is better at our continental breakfast.
We walk to claim our breakfast and run into Horse. We haven’t seen him in about a week. He is ready to hit the trail after two days resting his hooves at the hotel.
We return to our room to eat our breakfast then meet Horse in the front of the lobby at 7:30 am. Ray is there too. He drives a large SUV, and the hatchback is open. His dog, Penelope, a sweet and thick pitbull, is wagging her tail in the back, happy to see new friends. Ray tells us we can toss our bags back next to her. I place mine and Rachel’s bag in the back trying not to shrink her space to much. She looks concerned as her special space shrinks and she let’s out a brief growl, then sits down.
We hop inside the SUV, Rachel and I in the back, Horse in the front. Penelope rests her head on the headrest next to Rachel’s, panting and excited. Ray tosses us a backpack to place between us, moving it from the front seat. As it lands it releases the strong smell of marijuana.
As we drive to the trailhead we chat with Ray and befriend Penelope. Ray tells us that there is no rental housing available in Big Bear. Most of the property has been bought up and turned into short term AirBNB rentals. He couldn’t find a place to rent, but then bought some property with the help of his father.
When we reach the trailhead, Penelope pops out the back and takes a quick jaunt around the parking lot. Ray picks her up, and places her back in the car. She looks heavy. We say goodbye to Ray then the three of us cross the road and return to the PCT.
As we hike the air is still cool and we wind through pine trees in the sand. We cross a road leading to a transfer station and pass through land marked by a previous burn. There are no large trees, just shrubs. It reminds us of where we’ve previously seen the poisonous plant Poodle Dog Bush, and we discuss it with Horse. Soon enough we spot some, and point it out. It’s distinct look easily gives it away. It’s leaves erupt like a fountain at the base of the plant and stocks project upward from the fountain. Its ugly and unique looking. But I question if I’d see it as ugly if I hadn’t already known of it’s poison.
As we hike along the trail, we chat with Horse. It’s nice to be reunited with people you’ve met on the trail. A traveling community begins to build. He tells us about places he’s hiked before, like Mineral King in California. We tell him about our adventures too. Horse is from Newport, OR. He is retired. And we learn he was a CEO at a hospital. His calm demeanor tells us he was likely good at that.
We hike with him for several miles occasionally stopping to enjoy the view of the Mojave desert. Then we divide as we stop for a snack and he continues on.
This is how hiking goes. You often hike with people for a ways then split off as paces change. You usually have faith you’ll see them again, further up the trail. The trail has a way of making that magically happen.
We later catch up to Horse near a creak at lunchtime, and later at an afternoon snack.
We meet another older woman hiking the trail with her son although she says he’s about a week ahead now. Her bag looks heavy. She’s from Kingston, WA. I think it’s cool that her son and her started together, but I’m confused why he’d leave her behind. I personally wouldn’t leave my mother. She’s silly and entertaining.
The trail is perfect today. We pass through isles of pine trees, effortlessly breathing the fresh mountain air. Suddenly there’s a day hiker, then a family if them. Then between the trees we see Big Bear Lake. It’s beautiful from this distance. I prefer it from way up here where I can’t make out the bustling roads. In my mind I can imagine it’s peaceful.
We enjoy panoramic views for several miles then the trail shifts and we descend. We touch snow, we turn, we walk and listen to birds as they sing the same song their friends have sung all day and the day before. Somehow it never gets old.
“Twee, twee twee, twee twee” they sing, notes descending downward.
As we descend the pine trees thin and dissapear. The landscape turns to desert. We turn a corner and new mountains emerge. We stop to take in the view with Horse. He’s trying to find a camp spot with phone service. He and his wife attempt to video call each night.
We descend into a valley as the sun is setting. My heels are sore and feet tight, telling me it’s time to stop. We spot a camp shortly before the trail intersects a stream.
We divy up our chores. This is the benefit of hiking as a couple. On the trail we form a team. Rachel fetches water as I setup the tent. When she returns she encourages me to go soak my feet in the stream as she cooks dinner.
I slowly hobble down trail in my sandals to the stream. I soak my feet as the sun sets. It’s frigid cold water and it feels good. When my feet are numb I dry my feet and slip them back into their sandals.
As I climb back up to camp I smell dinner, it’s Thai curry quinoa with peanut sauce. It’s delicious. With bellies full we crawl into bed, ready to restore our muscles.
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