Trail Journals

Poison Meadow Spring to Rock Creek (PCT Day 62)

May 18, 2021 by Rachel Lanman 3 Comments

When we awake it’s still cold. But, with muscles ready to move, I poke my head from the tent. The ground is frozen and frosted. I look to see small sheets of ice clinging to Sriracha’s tent, just a couple feet from us. Our camp site last night was cozy, given it’s size. We crawl from our tent and cook coffee, talking with Sriracha and Chef as the sun begins to warm us, thawing out the ground, slowly drying our tent, still wet from last night’s rain.

We take our time to pack, knowing we have fewer miles today. Lupine and I are planning for about 15 miles. Sriracha and Chef however are planning for 20, because they want to get as close as possible to the Mt. Whitney cutoff. Tomorrow they will get up early and summit, then try to catch up with us in a day or two.

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Decisions (PCT Day 61)

May 17, 2021 by Rachel Lanman Leave a Comment

We wake to a cold, frosty tent. I peek out to see what the day will look like. The sky is blue with white, fluffy clouds. There is a cold breeze. Fortunately, the sun is bright and warms our cheeks. We make breakfast and coffee, and soon head out for the day. There are 2 big climbs today and we better get started.

Jon’s back continues to feel better, but it’s still not 100%. As we climb out of Death Canyon, I feel a sense of worry and fatigue. I’m worried about Jon because I’m not totally sure I understand the nature of his back pain. Will it just go away? Could he “throw out” his back, 40 miles into the wilderness? The Sierra Nevada is a mighty range, rugged and hard with unpredictable weather and real consequences. That’s already a lot of variables to manage. I get angry, stabbing my trekking poles into the dirt as I climb. I am not mad at Jon, but at the situation. But to Jon, I imagine my anger looks pointed at him.

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Thunderstorm (PCT Day 60)

May 16, 2021 by Rachel Lanman Leave a Comment

We start at the south fork of the Kern River where Cow Canyon and Beck Meadows trails intersect the PCT.

It’s a chilly, beautiful morning. The sky is blue with little puffs of clouds traveling above the mountains. In the distance a grouping of dark clouds mingle.

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A Return to the Trail (PCT day 59)

May 15, 2021 by Rachel Lanman 2 Comments

Today marks our return to the trail after a week off for recovery. Last night we rode back to Kennedy Meadows with Sriracha and his wife and their two dogs. We camped at the general store, and I barely slept, which meant Lupine barely slept as well. Sorry Lupine.

After a week off trail, I’m anxious to get back. But I’m also worried. I feel like my back has been slow to heal, still slightly slanted to the left. As I lay in bed, I can feel an aching in my nerves, pulsing in my right leg, lighting up the circuits in my glute and low calf. I flip flop trying to get comfortable. It’s no surprise we both sleep poorly. I worry, “Is this a foreshadow of what’s to come?”

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Rest and Recovery (PCT Day 55)

May 11, 2021 by Jon Lanman 8 Comments

I’m sitting on a bus heading north from Lone Pine to Bishop, CA. The Sierra Mountains are on my left, whizzing by. Lupine is at my side. Chef is behind us. A stranger naps in the seat in front of us using her armrest as a headrest.

I wish I were hiking through the alpine my eyes absorb. It’s hot in the valley. It looks cool in the high mountains. I long for my back to feel better. I fear what if I do not heal. I will feel sad. I fear letting Lupine down. I want to finish this hike, but my back has been complaining, threatening to spoil my plans.

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The Desert’s Last Hurrah? (PCT Day 44)

May 1, 2021 by Jon Lanman 8 Comments

Here we are again in the desert. No doubt about it today. Sand surrounds the tent. It’s before 6am when I wake up. The air is cool and comfortable, perfect temps for climbing a hill. But Lupine is still sleeping and our fellow hikers are still quiet.

I lay still, enjoying the cool morning air. I wish this could last forever, but I know it won’t. I watch the shade recede on the opposing hillside and know it will be hot soon.

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Desert and Meadow (PCT Day 43)

April 30, 2021 by Jon Lanman Leave a Comment

I have a headache when I awake. I reach for a water bottle. It cools my throat and comforts my head. I listen for noise outside my tent, to see if my friends are yet stirring. It’s quiet. It’s 6 am. Lupine’s sleeping. I roll over and close my eyes hoping my headache goes away. I don’t want to get up. I decide to enjoy the quiet.

I lay this way for 20-30 minutes before my bladder moves me into motion. I stumble from the tent, dragging my tired legs. The air fees cool and nice. There are no voices to ruin the morning. I stumble back to my tent, and lay down once again. My little air mattress is bliss.

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Monotony Plus Company (PCT Day 42)

April 29, 2021 by Jon Lanman 2 Comments

We awake at 6 am to the sounds of other hikers rustling outside their tents. Given the proximity of everyone, it’s difficult to sleep in. We let the air out of our sleeping pads and squeeze our sleeping bags into stuff sacks. Lupine crawls from the tent first and starts water for coffee. I pack my gear then begin tearing down the tent.

“Is anyone missing a pair of balled up socks?” one hiker asks. “If so, I just saw a squirrel take off with them.”

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Leaving Tehachapi (PCT Day 41)

April 28, 2021 by Jon Lanman 1 Comment

Tehachapi has been good to us. But now we have to go. It’s time to return to the trail.

In the last 48 hours, both Lupine and I, plus our friends Chef and Siracha have all gotten vaccinated. We’ve eaten well every night. Lupine and I have visited the German bakery 4 times since arriving. We’ve all lounged around our hotel room binge watching superhero movies on cable television.

Given all of this, you’d think we’d be eager to hit the trail with our fresh legs and new shoes. But some days are easier than others to get excited about hiking and it turns out today isn’t as easy as we expected.

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Vaccinated in Tehachapi (PCT Day 39-40)

April 26, 2021 by Jon Lanman 11 Comments

We find Tehachapi to be a pleasant trail town, likely our favorite thus far. We start our day by getting breakfast at Kelcy’s Restaurant, which is a short walk from our hotel. The air has cooled since yesterday, and we all feel good about our choice to zero and rest today.

At the diner, Lupine and Siracha order Huevos Rancheros, I order waffles with strawberries and whip cream, and Chef orders the Machaca and eggs. We each get freshly squeezed orange juice. Tehachapi continues to make a good impression.

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