Trail Journals

The Ongoing Gifts of Yosemite (PCT Day 86)

June 11, 2021 by Jon Lanman 2 Comments

It’s another tranquil day in the Yosemite backcountry. Again I smell the wild onion as I open up my eyes. I lay in our tent and imagine what my day will include – granite stone, rambling streams, and bright green meadows. Not a bad day at all.

As we prepare breakfast in the early morning light, several hikers pass by our camp heading upward, making their miles for today. Our deer friends again join us scampering through the forest. We watch them as we eat, sipping our coffee. The young ones look at us suspiciously, and we move smoothly so as not to startle them. Another hiker spots them as he walks by, and they scatter as he walks to the stream for water.

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The Many Meadows of Yosemite (PCT Day 85)

June 10, 2021 by Jon Lanman Leave a Comment

It’s cold again this morning. In the twenties, I assume. 25? 28? I’m not sure exactly. I watch the sun as it makes shadows on our tent. The shaded imprint of branches wave across the rain fly. When the sun is sufficiently illuminating the bottom of the tent, my motivation rises, bringing me upward to my feet. Again it’s time to hike. It’s time to go to work. Today will be a good day I tell myself again. I’m hopeful for beauty, wonder, joy, and a pain free day.

The snow from last nights dusting is mostly melted, with only hints of it in the shade of giant conifers. A little bit of ice sits at the bottom of our tent, where the snow began to melt then freeze again. Near our camp is a river, we must cross first thing in the morning. We do it before our coffee. So, does it even happen or is this just a dream? I skip across the rocks, precariously placed. But, I make it with dry feet. Unfortunately, Lupine is not so lucky, dunking her foot into the stream. Burrr…

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Yosemite Waterfalls and Granite Domes (PCT Day 84)

June 9, 2021 by Jon Lanman Leave a Comment

I awake. It’s cold. I see Lupine’s head is still tucked under her sleeping quilt. I’m relieved. I’m not ready to wake up. I tuck my head back under my quilt.

We originally planned to rise early To make up from lost time yesterday, from our venture to Yosemite Valley. But we clearly are not hardcore, dawn dashing, mile crushing thru-hikers. I’m okay with that. My bed is comfy. Last night was the first night with my new pad, a simple foam pad. The previous two nights were spent sleeping on a pile of clothes like a dog.

When I notice Lupine’s head stick out from her sleeping quilt, she says “I signed my shares”. She just got an urgent message last night from her employer. They just secured more funding and are issuing more shares to the employees, but she needed to sign by the end of the week. We’re lucky we were in Tuolumne for an extra day and that she has a tiny bit of phone service. Otherwise we’d be gone past the weekend.

When we get up, I stack my gear on the picnic table and pack it into my bag. I say to Lupine, “it’s going to be a good day. I’m just going to put that out into the world”.

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Donahue Pass, Tuolumne Meadows & The Yosemite Valley (PCT Days 82-83)

June 8, 2021 by Rachel Lanman 1 Comment

We rise to another blue sky in the backcountry. I turn over to greet Jon, and notice something odd. He is laying on a completely flat mattress pad. “Oh no, your pad!”, I exclaim. “Last night it kept deflating, so I pulled out the valve, and then it broke”. This was, admittedly, a little frustrating. Over the past week, the pad had been showing signs that there was something defective with the valve. Cactus would wake up multiple times at night and reinflate it. While in Mammoth Lakes, we went to a gear store to buy a new one, but Cactus has declined – citing the cost, almost $200.

I leave Cactus in the tent to evaluate the status of the broken gear, and make our breakfast on a stone in the sunshine. A chubby little Marmot joins me, observing carefully my preparations from a distance.

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Thousand Island Lake (PCT Day 81)

June 6, 2021 by Rachel Lanman Leave a Comment

We camp at the Agnew Meadow trailhead with plans of getting up early this morning to beat the heat, and possibly do Donahue pass today. But, those plans don’t come to fruition as we ignore the first light, hiding our heads under our sleeping quilts. I’ve come to grip with the fact we are not early risers on the trail.

We awake at 8 am and immediately get up, pack and begin hiking. I feel groggy on the trail as we climb without our coffee. We start the day with switchbacks and green grass. The trail is lush, with Lupine growing everywhere. In a week or two much of it will bloom.

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Return to the trail (PCT Day 80)

June 5, 2021 by Rachel Lanman Leave a Comment

Lupine and I remain in Mammoth Lakes for two days. We initially planned to stay for just one day, but when it came time to checkout the following day, we couldn’t bring ourselves to leave. Still tired, we chose to spoil our bodies with a second day of rest. And our bodies are thankful after the 10 days of trail we’ve subjected them to, And the countless more we will.

We get a ride to the trailhead from two friends from Seattle. They happen to be in the area climbing, and offer to give us a ride then they hike with us for the three miles over mammoth pass to rejoin the PCT. From there we all snag a selfie and wave goodbye. We may see them in a couple days as they’re going to Tuolomne to climb, and that’s our next stop as well in a couple days.

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VVR and into Mammoth Lakes (PCT Day 75-79)

June 4, 2021 by Rachel Lanman Leave a Comment

We wake with a single goal in mind, get to the Bear Ridge Trail and hike into Vermilion Valley Resort. It’s been 8 days in the wilderness, and we are eager for fresh food, beer and relaxation. The 7 mile trail to VVR is fairly uneventful, and we make good time. We see peek-a-book views of Thomas A. Edison as we hike down. The lake is very low, since California is in drought. Usually there is a boat which ferries hikers from the PCT to the resort, via the lake, but since there is not enough water in the lake to make the trip, we walk.

VVR is a rustic and simple place. Upon our arrival, we were greeted with a free beer, and a tour of the grounds. Chef, Sriracha, Blue, Machete, and several other hikers we know are sitting outside the little store, drinking beer. Everyone looks dirty and exhausted. The strain of our arduous journey through high Sierras written on everyone’s faces.

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Over Selden Pass (PCT Day 74)

May 30, 2021 by Jon Lanman 8 Comments

We start our day near Muir Ranch. Last night we crossed the river to check out the Blayney Hot Springs, and camped over here. It’s a wet morning, with dew and condensation on the tent that’s also dampened the outside of my sleeping bag. I hate it when that happens.

My sleeping bad is low on air. It’s been leaking air lately. I had to blow it up 3 times last night. As I lay still in the dewy morning air, I debate wether or not to blow it up again. I then decide not to and flip the valve to let the remaining air out. It’s 7 am and I rise and get started on the day, starting by filtering some water from the river.

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Muir Pass and Evolution Basin (PCT day 72)

May 28, 2021 by Rachel Lanman Leave a Comment

Today we have a long but beautiful climb up to Muir Pass. The trail follows the Middle Fork Kings River up into the snowy alpine, where it begins. The first 3 miles of the trail is through the Le Conte canyon. It’s a peaceful place. The meadows are soggy with recent snowmelt and wildlife is abundant, enjoying the warm, sunny morning.

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Mather Pass and Palisade Lakes (PCT Day 71)

May 27, 2021 by Rachel Lanman Leave a Comment

After nearly 12 hours, we emerge from our tent. Apparently, adjusting to physical exertion at elevation is exhausting. We are feeling rested this morning, and ready to tackle our fourth pass in four days.

I make us coffee and breakfast and then after packing up, we immediately ford the South Fork of the Kings River. It’s a cold crossing and I can hear my own voice in a high pitched exclamation above the roar of the river.

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