Trail Journals

Return to the trail (PCT Day 80)

June 5, 2021 by Rachel Lanman Leave a Comment

Lupine and I remain in Mammoth Lakes for two days. We initially planned to stay for just one day, but when it came time to checkout the following day, we couldn’t bring ourselves to leave. Still tired, we chose to spoil our bodies with a second day of rest. And our bodies are thankful after the 10 days of trail we’ve subjected them to, And the countless more we will.

We get a ride to the trailhead from two friends from Seattle. They happen to be in the area climbing, and offer to give us a ride then they hike with us for the three miles over mammoth pass to rejoin the PCT. From there we all snag a selfie and wave goodbye. We may see them in a couple days as they’re going to Tuolomne to climb, and that’s our next stop as well in a couple days.

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VVR and into Mammoth Lakes (PCT Day 75-79)

June 4, 2021 by Rachel Lanman Leave a Comment

We wake with a single goal in mind, get to the Bear Ridge Trail and hike into Vermilion Valley Resort. It’s been 8 days in the wilderness, and we are eager for fresh food, beer and relaxation. The 7 mile trail to VVR is fairly uneventful, and we make good time. We see peek-a-book views of Thomas A. Edison as we hike down. The lake is very low, since California is in drought. Usually there is a boat which ferries hikers from the PCT to the resort, via the lake, but since there is not enough water in the lake to make the trip, we walk.

VVR is a rustic and simple place. Upon our arrival, we were greeted with a free beer, and a tour of the grounds. Chef, Sriracha, Blue, Machete, and several other hikers we know are sitting outside the little store, drinking beer. Everyone looks dirty and exhausted. The strain of our arduous journey through high Sierras written on everyone’s faces.

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Over Selden Pass (PCT Day 74)

May 30, 2021 by Jon Lanman 7 Comments

We start our day near Muir Ranch. Last night we crossed the river to check out the Blayney Hot Springs, and camped over here. It’s a wet morning, with dew and condensation on the tent that’s also dampened the outside of my sleeping bag. I hate it when that happens.

My sleeping bad is low on air. It’s been leaking air lately. I had to blow it up 3 times last night. As I lay still in the dewy morning air, I debate wether or not to blow it up again. I then decide not to and flip the valve to let the remaining air out. It’s 7 am and I rise and get started on the day, starting by filtering some water from the river.

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Muir Pass and Evolution Basin (PCT day 72)

May 28, 2021 by Rachel Lanman Leave a Comment

Today we have a long but beautiful climb up to Muir Pass. The trail follows the Middle Fork Kings River up into the snowy alpine, where it begins. The first 3 miles of the trail is through the Le Conte canyon. It’s a peaceful place. The meadows are soggy with recent snowmelt and wildlife is abundant, enjoying the warm, sunny morning.

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Mather Pass and Palisade Lakes (PCT Day 71)

May 27, 2021 by Rachel Lanman Leave a Comment

After nearly 12 hours, we emerge from our tent. Apparently, adjusting to physical exertion at elevation is exhausting. We are feeling rested this morning, and ready to tackle our fourth pass in four days.

I make us coffee and breakfast and then after packing up, we immediately ford the South Fork of the Kings River. It’s a cold crossing and I can hear my own voice in a high pitched exclamation above the roar of the river.

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Slowing Down in the Sierras (PCT Day 70)

May 26, 2021 by Jon Lanman Leave a Comment

The original plan for today was to hike over both Pinchot Pass and Mather Pass (only 8 miles apart) to the Palisade Lakes. That’s where Chef and Sriracha are heading. But after yesterday, Lupine and I have our reservations. Or, at least, I certainly do.

Yesterday was only about 12 miles and I was exhausted. I started the day feeling great, charging ahead over Glen Pass and then down the snow field to Rae Lakes. Then I hit a wall. The elevation sapping my energy, all I wanted to do was nap. Then as we descended, my sciatica began to fire up shooting jolts down my leg. Aside from the sharp pain, it also rubbed on my mind, wearing me down. I thought I was doing better… But am I?

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Glen Pass and Rae Lakes (PCT day 69)

May 25, 2021 by Rachel Lanman 3 Comments

Morning comes to our junction camp. It is sunny and warm. This morning we will climb 1,100 feet to Glen pass, which tops out at 10,771 feet. We hear Glen has a lot of snow on the north side, and so we begin our climb early, in order to cross the snow when it is firm. By mid-day, the snow will be soft and slippery.

I climb in the quiet of the morning, my mind darting from one half thought to another. My breathing falls into a rhythm as we climb higher into the mountains.

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Kearsarge Pass (PCT Day 68)

May 24, 2021 by Rachel Lanman 2 Comments

For the last few nights we’ve been in Bishop, staying at the Hostel California. It’s a funky house full of temporary vagabonds and passers-through. It’s a place of young people, not all exclusively young.

The walls are adorned with autographed pictures of known rock climbers, likely signed as they stayed here for one of their trips to the playground of the Sierras.

Each night we hear laughter outside our window in the courtyard as the smell of marijuana drifts upward. Our room has four bunks, and a private bathroom. It’s nothing fancy, but comfortable enough. Downstairs in the living room, hikers are passed out on the couch, shoes still strapped to their feet. I prefer to assume they just got off trail and couldn’t make it any further, or spare the extra calories to unhitch their shoes. But, from the smell of the courtyard last night, I suspect they forgot how to untie them, or simply forgot to care. Nevermind where their room is.

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Forester Pass (PCT Day 64-65) – UPDATED

May 20, 2021 by Jon Lanman 10 Comments

I updated this post with pictures

We wake to see a number of our fellow hikers have already left, looking to cross Forester Pass early. I don’t blame them. Forester Pass is the highest point of the trail at 13,200 ft, and our first major crossing with snow. On top of all that, there’s rumor of some cold weather moving in today, and snow forecasted for tomorrow. So, many hikers are planning to cross Forester then Kearsarge Pass as well to escape off trail into Independence, CA. The stretch from here makes for a 21 mile day with plenty of elevation.

We’re not certain of our plan yet. We were hoping to reunite with our friends, saving them tent spots next to us last night. But, there’s still no sign of them. It would be super human for them to be ahead of us after climbing Whitney yesterday, so we assume they are a few miles behind us. We will likely see them today.

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Rock Creek to Tyndall Creek (PCT Day 63)

May 19, 2021 by Jon Lanman 2 Comments

We start out at Rock Creek, crawling from our tent into the cold. It’s so cold with the wind, before the sun sheds it’s rays on us we skip breakfast and coffee opting to have it further up trail. Lupine heads up the trail as I finish packing my bag.

In normal years, Rock Creek is one of the first river crossings that can be tricky due to rushing waters of snow melt. But this year is not normal. Snow pack is far, far below normal. I skip across the rocks with ease, admiring the golden brown rocks underneath the water.

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Trail Journals

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