Monday, August 29th
We wake from our epic perch above Reese lake. I roll onto my back. Mandy looks at me.
“Last night, you didn’t move at all. I thought you died!”
First night’s sleep on trail is always heavy. I am so tired from all the fresh air and exercise, that often I will sleep for 10+ hours the first couple nights until my body adjusts.
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Sunday, August 28th
I wake up in my bedroom in Bend, OR. My friend, Mandy, had flown in from WA the night before. For the next week, our only job is to hike around the Three Sisters, a trio of volcanoes visible from my bathroom window. But first, we had to get to the trailhead, and we had so much to do!
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Since moving to Oregon, I’ve been very excited about all the unexplored terrain it has to offer. But we’ve been so busy with work, family obligations, and other forms of “adulting”, I have had little free time to check it out.
I’m in between jobs now, and plan to take advantage of the time and go for a bike ride.
Oregon has lots of Ecoregions. Some of them are similar to Washington, but many are totally unique to Oregon. Here’s a good list of them, with their descriptions:
…A poem by Rachel Lanman
When the forest burns, so does it’s mysteries. The cool dark places where deer hide, now too hot and exposed. The smell of sweet pine replaced with the acrid scent of rot and ash. It gets stuck in your nose and lungs. Green to black, life to death.
When 500,000 acres burns, it’s not just death, it’s annihilation. With whole generations of bear, deer and birds unable to escape, succumbing to smoke and heat. A collective and final exhalation of breath. Sound to silence, life to death.
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I awake to the smell of smoke. We slept near one of the snow lakes, and this morning the smoke has blown in. I’m not sure where the smoke originated but I assume it’s from the bootleg Fire which is currently consuming wildlands and woods to our west.
We eat breakfast and drink coffee next to a small lake near our camp. The setting feels more like home, with trees scattered around us and huckleberry bushes standing petite and low to the ground.
…Today is July 25th and we are now in Oregon, just south of Crater Lake. Tonight we’re camped next to one of the Snow Lakes, which is more like a small pond. Today was one of our prettiest days in Oregon yet. We passed by miles of huckleberries and green forests then climb upward at the end of the day to walk along a ridgeline, obtaining our first scenic view in Oregon. Now we lay under the stars as I reflect on where we’ve been.
It’s been hundreds of miles since we last made a post, and I apologize to all of you who’ve been following along on our adventure. When we last left off, we were in South Lake Tahoe. Since then we’ve been through a number of small towns speckled throughout Northern California, and benefitted from the kindness of strangers on several occasions.
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Today we awake, glad to be alive after Lupine’s brush with danger yesterday. The weather has been warming over the last several days, so we sleep without the rainfly on, and I awake to the buzz of mosquitos hovering around our tent. I roll over and look at them as they hover then land randomly on the mesh fabric of our tent. They are desperate to eat me.
I apprehensively rise from bed and am amazed that I am able to leave our camp relatively unscathed. We quickly pack up all of our gear then make our way down the trail, hoping to find a more peaceful place to eat our breakfast. When we eventually spot a large stone slab sitting in the sun, we branch off the trail and begin our daily regimen of coffee and muesli. At first, our place is peaceful, but before long the mosquitos have tracked us down, and we disappear under our bug nets.
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Last night we had one of our best camp spots of the trip. We camped at mile 1,046 and our tent sits atop a ridge where I fell asleep watching the sky turn pink in the horizon, a ribbon of color above the mountains. Now, this morning the mountains are glowing again, telling us the sun is on its way. We best prepare to start our day. But it’s so comfy in our tent. My legs hurt last night, aching in my sciatica. So I’m hesitant to get up, but eventually I must rise. I summon the courage and rise.
Yesterday we did about 20 miles. The plan is to do the same today.
We leave camp around 7 am, and bid good day to a fellow hiker camped nearby. We do not see him again today.
…When I awake to the alarm at 5 am I can hear the wind swirling around overhead, stirring above the trees. I envision the clouds swirling and twisting like liquid in a caldron. I remember watching the clouds last night move quickly across the sky. Before falling asleep I slipped in some earplugs to help clear my head. Fortunately our tent sits sheltered beside some boulders, avoiding most of the wind.
I ask Lupine how she’s doing as her eyes barely open. “I’m tired” she says as her eyes then seal back shut. I’ll lay here a little longer and then get moving I decide. Lupine wakes up at 6, and writes a quick and simple account of the day.
Woke up at creek. Slept in till 6.
Breakfast and coffee at our campsite. We are tired this morning and need come caffeine to get moving.
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We wake up at Deadman Campground under a huge cedar tree – slept well, but woke up hungry. Jon was so tired the night before he put on two right shoes, one of them mine, to use the bathroom. I reapplied Jon’s KT tape, packed up and headed down to Kennedy Meadows for breakfast around 7:30. Only one table occupied so far, the normally bustling cafe was very quiet. The local dogs in the adjacent lobby looked at us, but obediently did not enter the cafe. I ordered biscuits and gravy, 2 eggs, 1 pancake and ham. I’d been craving biscuits for the last 200 miles or so. Jon got 2 pancakes, 3 eggs and sausage. Coffee was excellent, not too strong or weak, just right. The food at KM has been really good, and affordable. I feel rejuvenated from our last 3 meals here.
While packing up last night, I made a horrible realization – I left my treeking poles in Steve’s car. I am unable to buy, borrow or steal any trekking poles at Kennedy Meadows North, so I resolve to hike the next 75 miles without poles. I can borrow Cactus’s poles for snow crossings, if needed.
The shuttle back to Sonora Pass had 9 hikers and their packs piled into a van. Our driver, a soft spoken older man, pointed out old wagon trails from the 1850’s along the way. Amazing that settlers haven’t been here very long, just in the last 200 years? I once stayed at a friend’s house in Austria. It had been in his family for 400+ years. The driver told us a story about a hiker who found a 15 lb rifle along the wagon trail, dating back to the 1880’s.
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